"It starts with standing up, on water.
Everything that follows is secondary and ultimately lesser. And everything that follows is also unbelievably fantastic so that will put into perspective just how essential the standing on water part is.
In the end, we surfers are drawn to the wave, the ride, the rush. We find that we can catch the waves in a position we used to only dream of. For those of us who are slow getting to our feet that hurdle is gone – we’re already up. We see what is coming from a longer way off and we can establish position to make the best of the possibilities. And then we ride. And ride. And ride.
If you measure in smiles it wins the grand prize. If you measure in terms of conditioning it will hold its own against virtually anything out there without the typically commensurate risk of damage-doing.
And so we like it. A lot. And we do it, a lot. Our friends and family suffer our incessant chatter about how amazing the last session was. They barely tolerate our eyes on the ocean at all times attitude. They recognize that they have lost a part of us. We are comforted by the truth that they are also gaining more of us in so many other ways.
So we must ask some forgiveness for our excessiveness. There is probably a word beyond exuberance – whatever that word is we are guilty of it.
Some would take issue with the fact that we feel like gods out there, walking on the water. It’s an obvious conceit and a connection that any observer would easily make. We don’t mean to say we think we are God, but we are clearly doing something outside our previous experience and we know it is special. Earth and water beneath our feet, heavens above, and we exist between – connected, aligned, blessed.
It starts with standing up, on water."
Anonymous Stoked East Coaster
updated 06/27/2016 1:04pm
3.6 ft @ 8 sec from ESE
SSE (Onshore) @ 18 mph
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